The outsider’s cultural guide to Dar-es-Salaam: Wavuvi Kempu, CHAN 2024 & more

Abood Bus recently launched a new luxury service from Mombasa to Dar via Tanga. At Ksh. 2,500– Ksh. 3,000 per person, the ride is surprisingly comfortable. It has reclining seats, onboard toilet, air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and even a TV. Two daily departures (morning and evening) make it an easy pick for road travelers who don’t mind the long haul.

Dar is well-connected to Kenya, whether you’re road-tripping or flying in.

1. By Bus From Nairobi

Options include Kidia One, BM Coaches, and Tahmeed, all offering daily services to Dar.

2. From Mombasa

Beyond Abood, you can hop on Tahmeed or Tawakal. Most buses are long-haul but surprisingly comfy, with reclining seats, A/C, Wi-Fi (sometimes patchy), and onboard entertainment. Prices generally range between Kshs 2,500–3,500, depending on the operator and class.

3. By Air

If you’d rather skip the long hours, several airlines connect Kenya and Dar:

Kenya Airways (Nairobi → Dar direct daily)
Precision Air (Nairobi → Dar, with links to Arusha and Kilimanjaro)
Jambojet (Nairobi → Dar, budget-friendly and frequent)
Air Tanzania (Nairobi → Dar, with competitive fares and baggage allowance)
Skyward Express (Nairobi → Dar, increasingly popular for its competitive fares and flexibility)

Flights take about 1h 30min, with return fares usually between USD 150–250 if booked early.

Top of the City Playlist

No name echoes across Tanzania right now like Mbosso. From his boy-band beginnings with Yamoto to his solo rise under Diamond Platnumz’s Wasafi Records, Mbosso has cemented himself as one of the country’s biggest stars. His music fuses amapiano, singeli, R&B, hip hop, and bongo flava. The latest anthem, Pawa, is everywhere, a true regional takeover.

Talk of the City

Tanzania heads to the polls this October in a tense atmosphere. Opposition leader Tundu Lissu, chairman of CHADEMA, has been jailed since April on treason charges he denies. The party itself was disqualified after refusing to sign the electoral code of conduct, leaving President Samia Suluhu Hassan, running for the first time since stepping in after Magufuli’s death in 2021, facing only smaller-party candidates.

Politics aside, sports fever still dominates. After ticketing chaos and safety concerns marred CHAN 2024 in Kenya, I came to Dar to see how Tanzania handled things. Here, the experience was smoother: stadiums filled up when Tanzania played, while matches between other countries had thinner crowds.

Best Venue

Wavuvi Kempu at Coco Beach is where Dar stole my heart. More than just a restaurant, it’s a movement, born from fishermen’s traditions in Kilwa and coastal societies stretching from Tanga to Mtwara. The menu is rich with stories of the sea. And the vibe? Pure magic. I left already plotting a return for the HELLO JUA sunrise beach party.

Step outside Wavuvi and you’re still in for a treat: Coco Beach is alive with vendors selling mihogo (cassava) and mishkaki (grilled meat skewers). Weekends bring live music and buzzing crowds. Entrance is free, the soul of the city is right here.

Must Have App

Traffic in Dar is legendary — boda-bodas (motorcycle taxis) are the quickest way through. Bolt offers a safer, more reliable version of the boda experience. Essential.